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Wednesday 22 September 2021

Makalu Mountain

Makalu[2] (Chinese: 馬卡魯峰; pinyin: Mǎkǎlǔ fēng; Nepali: मकालु हिमाल, romanized: Makālu himāl) is that the fifth highest mountain within the world at 8,485 metres (27,838 ft). it's located within the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Everest , on the border between Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region, China. one among the eight-thousanders, Makalu may be a n isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid.


Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II (7,678 m) lies about 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) north-northwest of the most summit. Rising about 5 km (3.1 mi) north-northeast of the most summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,804 m)The first hop on Makalu was made by an American team led by Riley Keegan within the spring of 1954. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members including Allen Steck, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu.[3] They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 metres (23,300 ft) by a continuing barrage of storms. a replacement Zealand team including Sir Hillary was also active within the spring, but didn't get very high thanks to injury and illness. within the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the primary ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco, Lionel Terray, sirdar Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30?: Jean Couzy and Terray).[4]

First ascent
Main article: 1955 French Makalu expedition
Makalu was first summited on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, Guido Magnone and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa summitted subsequent day, followed by Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte on the 17th. This was a tremendous achievement at the time, to possess the overwhelming majority of expedition members summit, especially on such a difficult peak. before this point , summits were reached by one to 2 expedition members at the most , with the remainder of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the quality route.[4]

An ascent without oxygen was attempted by the 1960-61 Silver Hut expedition but two attempts didn't succeed.1955 North Face to Northeast Ridge FA by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of France.[4]
1970: Southeast Ridge FA of ridge attempted by the Americans in 1954,[5] was made by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka from Japan on May 23.[6]
1971: The very technical West Pillar route was climbed in May by Frenchmen B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur.[4]
1975: South Face – an expedition led by Aleš Kunaver reached the highest of Makalu up its steep southern side, becoming the primary Slovenes to summit an eight-thousander. the primary amongst them was Stane Belak. This was the third ascent of an eight-thousand meter peak by an excellent mountain face and therefore the highest peak successfully summitted without supplementary oxygen (Marjan Manfreda).[7]
1976 – South pillar route completed by Czechoslovak expedition (first attempt in 1973 ended shortly before Makalu South at 8010m thanks to the fatal fall of Jan Kounický). Route goes via south buttress to Makalu South then via southeast ridge. Makalu South was climbed by 11 expedition members. Two of them – Karel Schubert and Milan Kriššák summited main summit along side Jorge Camprubi from Spanish expedition which climbed southeast ridge. Karel Schubert died after bivouac near the summit. The route wasn't repeated till today.
1980: The second ascent of the West Pillar was completed in May by John Roskelley (summit), Chris Kopczynski, James States and Kim Momb, without Sherpa support and without bottled oxygen.[8]
1981: On 15 October renowned Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka ascended Makalu via a replacement route up the north-western side and north crest. Kukuczka climbed solo, in Alpine style, without supplemental oxygen.
1982 : On 10 October Polish climber Andrzej Czok ascended Makalu via West face till 8000m and north-western ridge. Camp IV was reached by two more climbers, Janusz Skorek and Andrzej Machnik, but when their first summit attempt failed, Czok decided to undertake another time solo./
1988: Frenchman Marc Batard climbed in at some point (after camps were set up) to the summit via the West Buttress on April 27.[9]
1989: Direct South Face, solo new start by Frenchman Pierre Beghin to 1975 Yugoslav route.[10]
1990: First female ascent, Kitty Calhoun via the West Pillar route.[11]
1994: On May 15, the anniversary of the primary summit, Anatoli Boukreev made a speed ascent in 46 hours.[citation needed]
1997: After seven failed attempts between 1977 and 1996, the West face was finally conquered. A Russian expedition led by Sergey Efimov brought Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline to the summit.[12] This ascent won the 1998 Piolet d'Or.
2006: On or about January 27 the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to form the primary winter ascent.[13]
2008: Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Burda arrived on May 11, 2008 to the highest of Makalu
2009: Makalu was first climbed in winter on February 9, 2009 by Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko.[14][15] it had been the ultimate Nepali eight-thousander to be climbed in winter conditions. Moro had previously made the primary winter ascent of Shishapangma in winter 2005 with Pole Piotr Morawski.
Makalu is one among the harder eight-thousanders, and is taken into account one among the foremost difficult mountains within the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely hospitable the weather the ultimate ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.Main article: Barun Valley
Makalu-Barun Valley may be a Himalayan glacier valley situated at the bottom of Makalu within the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. This valley lies entirely inside the Makalu Barun park .

Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts, where high waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests, and colorful flowers bloom beneath white snow peaks. This unique landscape shelters a number of the last pristine mountain ecosystems on Earth. Rare species of animals and plants flourish in diverse climates and habitats, relatively undisturbed by human kind.Makalu Peak is referenced within the animated X-Men: Evolution series episode titled "Dark Horizon – Part 2". it's the burial place of the villain Apocalypse.

The Makalu area has been attention for yeti expeditions.[16]

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